Vogue 1282

I made a top and skirt last week:

Calvin and I had to go to a bar mitzvah on Saturday, and of course I needed something nice to wear. I decided on Vogue 1282, out of a grey knit I've had in my stash for, oh, 8ish years. It's some sort of synthetic, and is spongy. I made a size 12 (for reference, my measurements: chest 33.5", bust 39", waist 31", hips 40.5", I'm 5'2"ish and wear a 34E). Both pieces went together really quickly.

The top is only one pattern piece. I added about 1.75" to each side of the CB seam at the hip. I didn't need to add that much -- it fits fine but I think I'd like it a bit snugger so that it bunches up more. The pattern calls for the top to be cut on the bias, which is stupid, because it's out of a knit. I ended up cutting it cross grain, as my fabric was only 45" wide. Since it's a 4 way stretch, cross grain isn't a problem.

After stitching up the CB seam, I tried it on, and needed to take the neckline in. I took it in about .75".

See how nice it lays with that adjustment?

The armholes are finished off with a straight grain strip of fabric. I used a .25" seam allowance, as they would have been a bit low with the standard 5/8" one. I'd heard the neckline was low, so after trying it on I stitched it up another inch. It's still low, but hey, when life gives you curves, flaunt them.

I put lingerie guards to keep the top sitting correctly all the time.

The skirt went together very quickly as well. It's only 2 pieces, 3 if you count the straight grain strip for the elastic waist casing. I shortened it 3" above the split, and I'm thinking I might take it up an inch or so more. There are 4 tucks in the front of the skirt along with multiple tucks in the side back seams.

One more picture of Calvin photobombing me:

More HotPatterns

I made 2 more HotPatterns last week. These were for the WI State Fair, and I cranked them out pretty fast. I thought garments were due for judging last Friday (the 22nd), but after checking online, realized they were due last Monday (the 18th), with judging on the 21st. Without those extra 4 days, I didn't get all my entries finished.

Anyway, I made the HP Riviera Cote D'Azur top:
which went together very fast. It's a great looking top. I want to try the dress also, though I'm pretty sure I'll stick with a solid for that, otherwise I fear it will look a lot like a caftan or muu-muu. Not really a look I'm going for right now at this point in my life.

I also made the HP Primavera dress:
which looks lovely, but in all honesty I don't know if it fits me. I'm pretty sure I should have at least done a FBA, but I was under a time constraint, so just made a straight 10. I figured if it didn't fit me, I'd be able to give it to someone, and sure enough, when I posted the picture on my Facebook page, Stacy S piped up that she'd take it if it didn't fit. :)

Both garments placed (4th and 3rd, respectively), as well as my HP Kimono Wrap dress (3rd) and Caleb's waistcoat (1st).

My food entries are due for judging tomorrow morning. I won't stay for that, so I'll have to wait until I go the fair to see those results. I'll be entering banana bread, a plate of scones (I plan do to whole wheat cinnamon ones), and strawberry jam.

Vogue 7488

Caleb's 8th grade promotion ceremony was last night, and here is his waistcoat. He picked Vogue 7488; I made a size M. I was to make a suit as well, but we decided it would be too hot to wear, plus probably wouldn't fit him come winter anyway. So, I'm going to take that wool and either make a suit for him for fall/winter, or I might find a topcoat pattern, as he wants a formal coat. (sometimes I think aliens have taken my real son)

Modifications I made were to cut the back out of the fashion fabric (the pattern calls for the back to be made from lining), I eliminated the back belt, and all four pockets are functional (top two are faux according to the pattern. I do my pockets like this). He was very pleased with how this turned out.

I don't really like finishing vests this way, preferring instead to stitch the shoulders and armholes completely by machine, turning through the lining side seam. However, there is no back collar on this (! I didn't like that part), so I had to do the armholes according to the directions, which meant hand stitching the back shoulder lining over the seam.

There is a nice split at the side seams.

The front inside has a hem facing. There is also a small pleat where the lining meets the facing -- it's not really needed, IMO. I'd eliminate that next time.

My boy is in high school now!

Full review for this pattern is here, at Pattern Review. I've entered it in the Sewing for Men contest.

Graduation Dress

I've been working on an eighth grade graduation dress for the daughter of a friend. They asked me back in February if I would be able to make one, and how much. I said 'of course!' (I mean, come on! I have all boys. I leapt at the chance to make a girly dress!), and said I do like the barter system. :) It's win-win -- her daughter gets a lovely, one-of-a-kind dress, I get some babysitting, or meals, or housework....I haven't decided yet.

Anyway, here's the dress. She brought me a magazine photo of a dress they liked, and we started with Vogue 2481. I flared the skirt and added straps. C is pretty much a perfect pattern size 8, so I did virtually no adjustments to the muslin I made. She has that perfect 14 year old figure, with the willowy waist. Ms. Belinda does not have the perfect 14 year old figure (and definitely no willowy waist), so I pinned the dress onto her as best I could.

The dress has an inner foundation, which I think is going to be great for C. The foundation keeps the dress secure and held in place, so she shouldn't feel the need to hike up on it all the time. Calvin and I had his gymnastics banquet the weekend before last, and a lot of the girls were wearing strapless dresses and constantly pulling on them. Not a good look! For the foundation, I used muslin, and cut each piece twice. Then I layered the pieces, stitched the channels for the boning (I used rigilene), and constructed the foundation.

I took care to match the pleats on the left side seam. The fabric was purchased at Joanns. They fell in love with it, and bought the whole bolt (only 2.5 yards), and thankfully it was enough. It's a polyester, but it feels really nice and is a very good imitation silk. I prewashed everything, and underlined the dress with white lining.

We lined the dress in pink, because isn't it fun to have a pretty lining? Besides, white is so sheer, you'd see all the seams through it. I prickstitch my linings (instead of slipstitching)down to the zipper to prevent them from rolling and getting caught in the slide.

To finish the bottom for the hem, I did a hong kong finish. 'Cause it's pretty. :) Graduation is tomorrow, I hope C loves it as much as I enjoyed making it.

(btw -- the boys wear suit jackets. I think Caleb might need a cool stylish suit jacket next year, no?)

Vogue 8379

I wore my Vogue 8379 wrap dress to church yesterday, and got quite a few compliments! I'm quite happy with how it looks, and don't feel as bumblbee-ish as I thought I might. I'm going to love it with my black boots.

You can read my full review here. Pretty much the only change I made to the pattern was to do a FBA. This dress was quite easy to make, and everything matched up well. The neckline lays nice and flat, and doesn't gap a bit (I tried getting a photo). I will definitely be making at least one more of these. You should too!

Entries Finished!

I finished the wrap dress. Hopefully it'll place. All my entries are done, clean, and pressed, and I'm about to leave to drop them off. Judging is Friday, and I hope to go watch after my dentist appointment.

I think this dress looks a bit bumblebee-ish. We'll see how I like it once I actually wear it a bit. I love the pattern, and will write a review and more details once I get it back. (fabric is from Canvasbacks)